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Peak Mountain 3

Horning Route

FA Dennis Horning and Doug Quiett, August 13, 1972
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Happiness is Water has been lost for almost 43 years. Touch the Sky only has it shown on the maps, without any written description. The new Busse & Burr guide also has no information on it, only that it is supposedly 5.5. We discovered the location of the spire on the FA of a separate route. Upon reaching the top of the spire, there was a perfect intact glass jar register with only the two names in it from the first ascent in 1972. Pretty wild.

The register says they climbed the SW cracks. This is a gaping flaring chimney which looks crumbly and scary, with questionable gear. I would doubt it to be 5.5 but probably not too much harder. There looks to be a crux at the top of the chimney where it narrows down.

The register also said that they climbed it on a 95 degree day...probably where "Happiness is Water" came from.

Location

Look for a cave feature on the southwest corner and a chimney above.

Protection

Unknown pro.

Rap anchor near top of new route on south face. Can rap with one 70 m rope for sure.


Routes in Happiness is Water


  1. 1
    Horning Route
    5.6
    Trad