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Peak Mountain 3

Empress

FA 1933, Fritz Wiessner, George Austin
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Climbs the slab with fantastic friction to a birch terrace on the left side. The route starts on the left facing corner to some belay cracks up above it. You can skip pitches 2 and 3 by taking a run-out direct line to the third belay. The last pitch before that ledge, the 3rd or 4th depending, is the crux pitch. The steepest slab on the route with no protection. Make sure not to be lulled to the protection right where the grade is suddenly steeper and slicker (Victoria 5.6+ R).From here, climb the off-width crack past a good ledge and out on to the slab on the right for 40 Ft to a belay at an overlap. Climb up the slab as it gets easier to the small clump of trees. Belay from here, or traverse right along a ledge to the trees right towards the north descent.

Location

The left side of the slab. Best descent is to traverse right to the north gully and follow a path with some fixed hand lines back to the start.

Protection

A small rack, a few medium and small cams and a few small nuts. Not much gear to place.