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Peak Mountain 3

South Fork Slab

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Description

This route climbs the center of the large slab at the gate to the campground. Many variations exist, but my favorite is straight up the middle, all the way to the top. Perfectly solid rock with many features that take an assortment of nuts and cams.

First bit is maybe the crux, flaring diagonal crack is weird to protect, but it's easy enough to climb through to the first good gear placement at 15ft.

At this point, traverse right a few feet to some shallow huecos and climb up to the next diagonal crack. Follow the crack for a bit then go up to a low angle slab.

For the final bit, climb into the right facing dihedral and build your anchor in the corner at the very top.

The center route is the longest(and best)climb, but climbing the right or left side of the slab is quite pleasant as well.

Location

Walk up to the grove of aspens at the base of the slab and start more or less up the left leaning crack. The crack itself is a little dirty, so I usually find myself climbing a little to the left. Walk down off those side.

Protection

Set of small to med nuts, and cams from .5 up to 3. Bring extra #2 and #1, along with a long bit of webbing to built an anchor