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Peak Mountain 3

The Pearly Gates

FA Carl Dec and Jeff Rhoads
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

3 pitches of bolted climbing. The route is a great combination of friction, edging, pockets and thin technical climbing on the second pitch. Good rock is the norm on this one.

P1 5.9+ 80' 10 bolts

There is a 2 bolt belay to provide security and to allow rappelling to the ground. Start just left, then trend right and up to base of shallow right facing corner.

Belay at 2 bolt anchor.

P2 5.10c 90' 12 bolts

Follow bolts up corner and then onto upper face and 2 bolt belay. Climbing is technical and thin but well protected.

P3 5.8 80' 10 bolts

Follow bolts up through small roof to 2 bolt belay. Alpine draw for 3rd bolt helpful. Bolt needed to be left due to rock quality.

Location

Pearly Gates starts on good ledge about 40' above and left of Highway to Hell. Easy scramble is found just left of overhanging rock left of Highway to Hell start. There is a 2 bolt belay at the base of pitch 1.

Descent: Rap with a single 60m.

Protection

12 draws. 1 alpine draw is helpful on 3rd pitch.