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Peak Mountain 3

Cut Loose

FA J. Smith, N. Nordblom, 1988
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Great route on the left end of the Stratocaster area. Climb the open-book left-facing corner and crack (5.10) for perhaps 15 meters to a roof. Clip bolts while traversing out right on the steep territory and pull the roof (bolts) to finish up to a fixed anchor. Lowering off may be hard on your rope, as would the second hang-dogging, so belay a solid partner from the anchors.

Location

Walking South towards the second pullout from Running Man Wall, this will be in the first major roof system encountered. At the left end of the large roof there is a crack in the corner, an open book that is climbable to the bolted roof and a fixed anchor above.

Protection

A set of cams from fingers to 3" plus a few draws for the bolts. One or two pieces might be best with a longer sling, including the first of the bolts.