PA's Variation

An independent pitch with independent good climbing, perhaps this is referred to as a variation because it was used as an alternate finishing pitch to

Pseudo Sidetrack

.

From the twisted juniper, climb up and into a hanging dihedral past some broken rock and so-so gear to reach a striking corner with a 1.5-3" handcrack. Climb this to the top and then go up and right, getting gear whenever possible, so as not to be for want of it later. You will head up and right out of the corner and see an old bolt with an old round aluminum hanger out and right on a sloping shelf. Clip it with a long sling (and screamer) or bypass this in favor of some small nuts left of it behind a 4" thick flake. Continue up and right through a bulge (bad gear, but good holds, 5.8?) and up to lower angle climbing, jugs,and more gear. Traverse right into trees and belay on upper juniper ledge (90') or continue up and finish as for the final roof of

Archer McLanahan

to the left (5.8+?).

Descend via the descent as for '

The Bulge

' or via East Slabs if finishing on

Archer McLanahan

.

This climb starts in the big left-facing dihedral down and right from

Archer McLanahan

. This is up and left from the big, twisted, gnarled juniper tree on Lower Juniper Ledge, after 2 pitches of

Pseudo Sidetrack

, or after finishing the pitch above

C'est La Vie

,

Continue-Us

, or

C'est La Fin

.

A standard light rack with a few long slings. The best part of the climb is a hands to thin hands crack in a solid corner, but there is a funky start with lesser gear (5.7?) and a steep finish on face holds (5.7 to 5.8, S) that was once protected by an ancient bolt and round aluminum hanger... I didn't bother clipping it, placing a few small nuts instead and climbing more directly. Comments below state that the bolt has been replaced, but the pitch is still runout.