Direct South Face

P1: Start at the base of the Pawn on the right side and work your way up a crack system to a bolted anchor on a ledge. The first pitch can be identified by a slanting 3" crack  (5.8)

P2: Climb a groove/corner with gritty rock for about 50 m to a 2-bolt belay on the right side of the gully right before the angle eases off. Part way through the pitch tension over to the crack system that goes left. (5.9+)

P3: Continue up the low-angle gully for 20m to another 2-bolt belay on the left side next to a rotten crack, below a short bolt ladder. (5.4)

P4: Climb the short bolt ladder and then move left along a wild hand traverse. Placing gear when possible (#4 useful). Do an awkward mantle on to the top of the 'Arrow Head' to another bolted anchor. (5.9)

P5: Mantle off the anchor onto some chicken heads and climb up the slab with great edges, clipping bolts along the way. Aid through the two roofs to access the final slab to the summit. Bring a single rack to #4. A #5 could be useful below one of the roofs. 18 or 19 bolts. (5.9 C1).

P6: Short scramble to the summit (5.4).

Descend here or continue to the top via the Upper Ridge.

Descent:

Short rap from the summit to the top of P5.

Double rope rap from top of P5 to P4.

Double rope rap from P4 to P2.

Double rope rap to ground.

Follow the approach directions on the main page to the base of the Pawn.

Route starts at the base on the right side.  It follows a main gully/crack system up the right side of the formation, before angling out left onto the main south face.

One each #0-3 TCU. Doubles from #0.4 to #3 Camalot. One #4 and maybe a #5. A few small wireds. Slings/draws. P5 has 18 or 19 bolts.

Aiders, ascenders.