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Peak Mountain 3

Tsunami

FA Paul Crawford
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Tsunami climbs the underside of a gigantic wave of granite through some thin and exciting features until its climactic end which requires one to kick out and surf the wave with sphincter puckering exposure.

Pitch 1.

(5.8) Climb the face through discontinuous cracks to a belay in a small tree.

Pitch 2.

(5.11) Tiptoe your way up the thin and awkward corner system above with fiddly gear and try your hardest not to wipe out and succumb to the strong undertow. Brutally relentless!

Pitch 3.

(5.11c) Start up an even more awkward and thin corner and clip the "thank god" pins as you go. Just when you're totally gassed, you find yourself at a precarious juxtaposition which requires one to "kick out". You'll find out when you get there!

Pitch 4.

(5.11) This pitch has bolts that have essentially rotted off the map. They are not sound for climbing let alone holding weight. Wouldn't be surprised if some of them just fell off the wall already. A shame! Do not climb this pitch without a bolt kit. That being said, bring a bolt kit and have a blast!!!

Location

Start on the Tsunami ledge. Pretty obvious feature.

Protection

Cams double to 3" plus one 4" piece. Nuts 1 set. Micros useful.