- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is one of the pairs of oldest routes at Big Rock. The hardware was ancient and rusty (90's), so they were removed last year. The hangers had silicone behind them, meaning it wasn't done ground up. The bolts were also in confusing locations that didn't serve the route well as the route had an R/X rating. Rap bolting R/X routes doesn't make sense. The original FA party could not be located to inquire it's history. At the request of the land managers, the route was updated and re-engineered.A phenomenally fun slab with some good thin climbing. Start on the lower ledge before I'm Wet. Make some tough moves off the ground to gain the cool dike. Follow the dike up and left past a few bolts before reaching the steeper face. Follow good feet to the first bolt in the steeper section. Make thin technical moves past several more bolts in the white slab before reaching the horizontal crack. Get a piece of gear in the crack and pull onto the apron. Move slightly right below the bulge, clip the bolt, and pull another hard sequence to get onto the bulge. Continue up the thin face past several more bolts, watch for thin loose rock up here. Continue past the old anchor where only one bolt remains, keep climbing until you reach the tree ledge.
Location
Just right of Genesis Wave on the white part of the slab before I'm Wet.
Protection
QD's for 11 bolts, ~#1 camalot size, top the route out and belay at the juniper or pine trees at the top. A 60m rope will not get you down from the old anchors. Walk climbers left and rappel once using the 5.8 Sport climb or rap twice over Mental Misstep.
Routes in X-Wall
- 10Anonymous Statement5.11-Trad