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Peak Mountain 3

Granola

FA Brad Shaver, 1976
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Description

Like Harrison Shull says in the guidebook, you should be solid at the grade before jumping on this one. I think the hardest moves come before you get any gear in. The potential fall is hard to describe, but you'll see it when you're looking at the route.

That said, Granola is a pretty fun undercling/crack route once you pull those first moves. And they're not that hard...

Location

The route is just right of Fruit Loops. Scramble up the large detached flake and belay from here. The "opening moves" involve a mantel on good holds up another flake.

Double-bolt rap anchor.

(The guidebook describes a second pitch, but I haven't done it. Most people don't. It looks fun, though.)

Protection

Take a variety of smaller stuff (up to a #2 camalot). Anything you place under the initial undercling roof should be slung long.