We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

My Stinking Brain

FA Doug Reed (1993)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route is characterized by extremely steep roof climbing with some stimulating cruxes thrown in. The majority of the holds are jugs and slopers.

Stick Clip the high first bolt and then tread lightly through the first 20 feet of vertical sandy stone. Follow a slopey rail out the roof past the third bolt and punch through the crimpy technical crux. Traverse on jugs left ten feet to a resting hold before the redpoint crux. Pop out right to a slopey hole and then jump to a good horizontal. Juggy climbing and one more technical move clearing the final roof delivers you to the top of the cliff.

The climbing on this route is very similar to the routes found at the hole (Kaymoor).

Location

The middle line up the giant cave.

Protection

7 Bolts + Anchor

Bring a draw for bolt 1 and a long draw for bolt 2. The rest is equipped with chain draws.


Routes in 2) Monolith Wall