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Peak Mountain 3

Wilts Bolt Variation

FA Chuck and Ellen Wilts, 1956
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A variation to the second pitch of the Salathe Route which climbs a steep face on big knobs.  The first pitch climbs the Salathe route, traversing left from the gully between the Hand and the Thumb to a bolt and then up to a big knob with two bolts for belay.

The second pitch traverses left to a bolt and then up and left on big knobs, some which can be slung for protection, to the top and a two-bolt anchor shared with the Salathe route.

Scramble about 100 feet up and right to the top of Lifeline to rappel 95' back to the start of the climb from two bolts with chains.

The year of his FA Chuck Wilts partnered with Don Wilson to write the 2nd ever guidebook to Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks.  Chuck would go on to pen four more editions of this guide, the last in 1979.

Location

From the base of the Hand/Thumb, 3rd class up an obvious crack past a tree and a pod to gain a sloping ledge.  Continue left on this ledge into the gully between the Hand and the Thumb.  Spot the first bolt and big knob which mark the first pitch on the left(south) wall.

Protection

5-7 quick draws plus a few slings for knobs on the second pitch.