- Edit (TBD)
Description
Typically avoided because of the super funky chain-links-used-as-bolt-hangers setup on the lead protection bolts and a lack of a real anchor, the route is surprisingly fun.Pull onto the rock and make tricky moves to the second clip. Sneaky moves get you up to the third bolt before another slabby crux past the fifth bolt. Pretty sweet holes and huecos lead to the seventh bolt and one more tricky bulge move before clipping two new (February 2015) bolts to the anchor at the top of the formation.For a couple decades a carabiner on the last (seventh) bolt served as the anchor with a single carabiner on it. Cam says they topped it out and didn't install an anchor, thus the current single bolt anchor setup. In February 2015 Jason added two bolts and an anchor to extend the climb and make for a safer lowering experience.
Location
On the small buttress just east of the Leaning Tower proper. It's left of the Easy Bake Alcove proper. Chain-link hangers make the route easy to spot.
Protection
Nine bolts. The first seven bolts are equipped with chain links for hangers.
Routes in Leaning Tower
- 12Tupelo Chain Sex5.11b/cSport