My Precious

A fairly fun gear route in a location with great views and exposure. Requires a bit of mildly unnerving climbing though crumbly quartzite before and after the crack.

This could be done as one or two pitches (or even three, although that'd be kind of silly).

Start from either the end of the second pitch of

Lord of the Slings

or the end of

Wizardly Way

. Walk across and climb up to the first bolt at the bottom of the final headwall and clip it with a double-length sling. Head up and left, following a line of four bolts though crumbly, white and yellowish quartzite. After getting past a sharp horn you'll reach a set of ring anchors. You can stop here, or, more likely, continue up to the crack proper.

Follow the crack, placing protection as needed while climbing up the corner (mostly stemming). At the top of the corner head a bit left and up to some chain anchors. Once again, you can stop here, or continue up.

There are three more bolts leading through some truly frightening, broken quartzite. Be careful what you grab. There is a location or two for supplemental protection that might make you feel a little better.

At the top of the buttress on a flat ledge you'll find two bolts for an anchor.

On the left side of the main

Trilogy

headwall, this line follows the corner up past the column that sticks out from the headwall.

If done as one pitch: 9 bolts, cams equivalent to C4 #.75 through #4. Doubles in #3 and #4 might be nice. Two-bolt anchor on top.