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Peak Mountain 3

Chief of the Magicians

FA Mike Burdon, freesolo, 2020
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UPDATED 

Description

Start by climbing up some mediocre blocky terrain behind the tree. After reaching the ledge, the rock and the climbing increases in quality. As the climbing gets steeper towards the top, the holds get more secure.

Location

On the right side of Babylon. It follows an obvious crack that can be seen from below the crag (see the photo).

Protection

There's some good gear on the upper half, but I can't comment on the bottom.

You use gear up to a #1 Camalot.  The bottom has a few small nut placements.


Routes in Babylon


  1. 2
    Chief of the Magicians
    5.7
    Trad