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Peak Mountain 3

Pillar of Pucker

FA (probably Jerry and Duane ~2011? - will check the guide)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A 5.7 or 5.8 start on a fist crack, where you'll place your first pro on the right - place it beside the first block of the pillar; the second and third are fully detached from the bedrock (causing the involuntary pucker reflex when your hand first goes UNDER one). Make easier moves clipping two bolts to the right (in lieu of trad pro on those suspect blocks) to reach the gully. Avoid much loose stuff here. Now follow the left arete past another bolt or two, and the move from the final bolt to the anchor is the crux. Going left as the routesetter intends makes a 5.10c finish using underclings and friction. Keeping to the arete or going right around the corner makes for a 5.9ish balancy or edge-stepping finish move.

Location

Sunny southeast side (climber's left) of the Goblet Wall. Look for a small inset pillar made of three discrete blocks, with a wider crack on the right, a fingertip crack to the left, and a gully above.

Protection

Place one piece of wide trad pro (3" to 4"?) in the right crack, clip four or five bolts, then something to rap off the anchors when done.

Tim noticed the bolt hangars are factory stamped 2011. Cosmetic flat gray spray pain appears to have been applied to blend in visually with the granite.

Not sure if you can access this to toprope from the tier above, we led it.


Routes in The Goblet Wall