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Peak Mountain 3

Kauk-kulator

FA Ron Kauk, John Yablonsky, 1975
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Amazing splitter, very aesthetic line. It is overhanging, dry in light rain and hard work for every foot of it 82 ft length.

Climb started from big ledge( approach from right)

crux first 3 moves passing fingers, off-fingers and super-tight hands - to good hand jam.

Than dream hands ( yellow cam size) .

Than wide pod 4-4.5" inches wide and about two body length , which can be crux for some ( rated 10c)

If you do levitation with your right knee above left ( right side in) it can be right rating.. My knee is not big , but it was not in, I did more like calf lock and hands stacks.

After the ow pod climbing continue about 20 more feet of 5.9-5.10

Location

same approach as for Blind Faith. just before the ledge on West wall one can see perfect splitter. Approach base of the climb from right surmounting big ledge

Protection

single from yellow alien to #5 camelot.

3#2 camelots

Plus you need some gear for belayer anchor (#3, #1, 0.75)