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Peak Mountain 3

Wyoming State Bird

FA Ben Rosenburg, Ben Collett, July 2014
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route was shockingly sustained and mostly fairly memorable.

  1. Follow the handcrack in the corner until it exits onto a ledge on the right. Belay here. 5.10 90ft.

  2. Step right and follow the dihedral for about 100ft to a comfy ledge and good belay below where the dihedral steepens. 5.6. It may make sense to combine 1 and 2.

  3. Follow the dihedral as it steepens, then do a cruxy step right as the dihedral disappears to a belay at a good spike. 100ft. 5.10+

  4. Continue above through a tricky groove until it ends. Step up into a left facing corner and follow the corner and face to its left exiting onto a good ledge. 5.10-R.

  5. Continue up about 20ft to a ledge on the right. Traverse this ledge for about 80ft until below a shallow dihedral. 5.7.

  6. Climb the shallow dihedral until it ends. Continue straight up for about 30 feet to a sloping ledge below a flake and corner system. 5.9 170ft.

  7. Pull into the corner system. Follow it until a roof is encountered, then step right to a sloping ledge. 5.10 160ft

  8. Step right and follow ever easier terrain to the summit. 5.6.

Location

This route starts around 300 feet right of Symbiosis in a shallow steep dihedral with a handcrack in the back.

Protection

Double set of cams from small to #3 camalot and one number 4 should be sufficient.


Routes in Point 11440, East Buttress


  1. 1
    Wyoming State Bird
    5.10+
    Alpine · Trad