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Peak Mountain 3

Yogi's Choice

FA RMWright, Fall 2011
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Begin in the corner of the white alcove. Most of this route is protected with cams. A bolt was placed low where the flakes are very wide. The headwall guarding the anchors is bolted. This excellent route starts out easy and just gets more and more difficult as one approaches the anchor. The lower section is just terrific climbing on a well featured system of flakes, cracks, and slots. The bolt at 60 feet protects the first really hard layback. You will need one or two more cams just above this move which is solid at 5.11+. The headwall above dodges the bird dung on the right, stays well left of this, but has at least four 5.11+ moves in a row, at least the way I did it. You may be able to cut left to the arete early and skim off a wee bit of difficulty. The lower section is super fun and never harder than 5.9 until you reach the bolt at 60 feet.

Location

This is the right hand route in the MCD alcove, it starts below the roof system.

Protection

Full rack of cams, half a dozen quickdraws, and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.