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Peak Mountain 3

Capricorner

FA Grant Burton, Greg Gavin, Shingo Ohkawa 2014
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A fun climb to tag on if you came all the way up here. Follow the start crack in the alcove to its end then move more or less straight over a few drainages aiming for a right facing corner with some horizontal cracks. Work your way up the crack as the gear gets thinner and gritty then make the final crux move to the ledge at the top of the corner. Low angle terrain will take you up a drainage to a descent belay spot. Used a natural anchor to rappel. Use care in the rappel as I remember some concerning large blocks at the top that you wouldn't want to trundle given the proximity of the Green A.

Location

Start right of mutually assured destruction in a little alcove where there is a low angle splitter to the right.

Protection

Singles, heavy on small stuff for the corner, I remember placing micro nuts and not feeling that great about them. Maybe not PG-13 if you can figure out a decent way to protect the top of the corner with micro gear.