Wilson Regular Route

Every data base needs some climbs you should NOT! do. This is one! Seems like every time we have been to the Freeway Wall we've seen someone having an epic adventure on this one. Usually involving trundling large blocks on the crowd below. It's an easy, (5.5) long, (3 pitch) climb and suckers in a crowd consistent with those atributes. There is however an inobvious and improbable looking left turn near the start of the second pitch. Most parties miss this and end up on the Wilson Irregular Route, 5.9?, bad pro, bad rock and in trouble. It took over 30 years for someone to con me into doing this one. I thought it looked worthless from the ground and doing it only confirmed that, but if you are a true masochist, here goes.

Pitch 1, Go up the easy and fairly obvious ramp on the left side of the large recess about 100ft or so left of The Swift. Belay at a big ledge. DO NOT CONTINUE UP THE RAMP!

Pitch 2, Step left and go up the plates on the right edge of the steep dark face. If you are a budding 5.5-5.6 leader this will look totaly wrong, but it goes! Belay on the large right trending ramp system. Short pitch.

Pitch 3, Continue up the easy ramp to the top. Be careful to avoid trundling loose crap on those below!

Standard J Tree Trad Rack