Andromeda

The climb starts about 100 ft prior to Sinocranium and for the most part stays 50ft left of the bolts. An independent line that Preston had previously attempted and bailed into Sino before the crux pitches. On the FA we did it in a party of 3 where Preston and I swapped leads. Andromeda is a far cry from Sinocranium. The climb has a mix of 3 quality pitches, 3 decent pitches and 1 crummy pitch (P1.) The climb ends on the Sino anchors and uses all gear anchors aside from  that.

P1: 5.4  (See beta photo.) Gear .3 and a chicken head. Anchor has a 5 and 4 where the crack widens.

P2: 5.6 Anchor under a roof.

P3: 5.7 Double Cracks (see beta photo) probably the best protected and most quality pitch. Pull a small roof trend right into the double crack system.

P4: 5.8 short section of unprotected slab into a a black alien/BD 0. Into a thin crack with good gear.

P5: 5.5 Dike pitch. Climb the climbers left dike to the base of Sinocraniums head wall. Small gear for the anchor.

P6: 5.7 traverse. We ended up linking the traverse into the crux, but it would have worked better to break them apart. Gear 3 high in a pod off the anchor climb down and left .5-.75 for anchor.

P7: 5.8 crux. Climb up and left on exposed face climbing. Preston basically built two anchors between 20ft of climbing for protection. We initially wanted to climb up a vertical crack above the anchor but ran out of 1-2’s. We had seen that the crack ran out into unprotected slab, when we were at the top of the pitch. Unsure the better option. Build anchor in a right leaning dihedral crack when available.

P8: 5.7/8: climb out the right leaning crack, and pull a small boulder problem. After the boulder problem, fly up easy slab. Trending right will lead to Sino Anchors.

Gear doubles .1 to 5 double 4s for the anchor. Kitchen sink.