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Description
Start climbing up the obvious crack on the right side of the cave, once you get about 6 ft up you can lay back into the back of the chimney to pass the thin section, you can just about lay back at any time to rest or place gear, the crack takes passive and active pro really well until the last ten feet or so where it turns into this horrible pebbly stuff. At that point make the short run out until you reach the large boulder that serves as the roof of the "cave", stick one last cam in the vertical crack and traverse right using this crack and exit out the top. Gritty route that's a great mix of crack and chimney climbing. Pro Tip: Bring a headlamp.
Location
The chimney "cave" directly right of the Courtyard Wall, inside you'll see a nice little crack running up the right side.
Protection
Passive and active pro.
Routes in Z-Loft
- 11Soggy Spider5.4Alpine · Trad