- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is one of two unbolted routes (that hopefully will stay that way) in between Flash Crack and Touch of Class.
Originally, this was a trad route and can still be done that way, but almost all of the few who climb it now toprope it. The PG 13 rating refers to the sketchy placements and run-out sections if you do this as a trad route.
Start below the lower end of a diagonal crack. After the pretty burly start, climb to a thin crack that leads up to a cave. The original trad route, which goes at 5.9, stops here and the climber walks off left. But the 10a finish involves pulling through the cave. Until you figure it out, it may feel a lot tougher than 10a.
This is a fun route and, if it's not beneath your dignity to toprope in a sport area, it's worth doing and you can almost always find it open because you have to actually build an anchor and not a lot of Austin climbers relative to the size of the community know how to do that or have the gear for it.
Location
On the only significant unbolted section of Guides Wall. Look for a diagonal crack a few yards left of Touch of Class, the furthest-right bolted route there.
Lead a route and top out to set this up, or find the brushy climbers trail leading up and right from the base and then turning back to access the top.
Protection
Tie off trees up top. 50' of cord should does it.