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Peak Mountain 3

Snowflake Variation 1

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Description

This is a fun climb that begginners could make it up. There are plenty of big holds that don't require fancy body positioning to use. Also some good hands free resting places to sort gear, take a breather or a picture.

Location

You can make up the first 15’ however you like, it shares the same broken up bit as the Library.  At the bottom of the open book/low angle right facing dihedral of the library, make sure you are climbing into the crack system that sort of parrallels to the right; starting with huge big, easy ledges

Protection

No fixed gear. Standard rack. Build your own anchor at the top or hike down. Gear is very hard to find on the first book leading to the ledge. I've heard you can use micro in the crack but I couldn't figure it out and anyway, I'm not sure what a 2kn nut is worth. I used a small alien cam on the outside (left) of the book midway up and wasn't thrilled with it. This was my 3rd trad lead so the experienced climber may find plenty of gear. Fortunately, after the first book you can put in as much gear as you want.

As per user Mikey Anderson: two #2’s would be helpful, standard rack + nuts.  The gear is good (for Chickie’s), at worst PG down low. When you get to the base of the crack system (with big ledges) you’ll get a #1 here, and a .5  in a vertically fading splitter up to the right of this(image), march up the ledges and find another #1 or whatever you have (there are other options here. More options lie above.