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Peak Mountain 3

Lady Smith

FA Keli Balo
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Climb the corner/buttress left of the bolts using face holds and a crack in the corner, stemming between the wall and the buttress. Relatively easy climbing through the bolts.

Clip the third bolt and make some balancey moves on small, tenuous holds (crux) to establish yourself in the crack--which is thin (fingers) at first, but widens quickly to hands.

Easier climbing in the somewhat flaring hand crack about 15-20 feet until a small bulge/roof (2nd crux). Hands thin out again at/above the roof for some awkward/tricky moves with decent feet.

Anchor is 10 feet above the roof.

Location

This route is far left on the Patina Wall--up the gully about 50 ft. from Tec-9. I do not believe it is in the San Diego County guidebook. It is on a hand-drawn topo of the wall (by Chris Hubbard

climbingtoposofsandiego.com

), farthest route out left.

It starts in a right-facing corner just to the right of a pillar with some cool-looking hueco features at the base (see BETA photo). Look for three bolts that end at an undulating hand crack.

Protection

Three bolts to start, then large nuts and a small selection of cams from fingers to C4 #3 should do it. Most people will want tape, too. Open shuts anchor.