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Peak Mountain 3

Con Questa Libre

FA Cayce Weber & Ed Jaramillo
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

"Con Questa Libre" is the next obvious line right of "Tostadas". If you're considering it, chances are you've already climbed "Tostadas", which will help for getting oriented. By comparison, the more popular "Tostadas" is longer, with an easier crux, and has more interesting climbing overall compared to "Con Questa Libre". It's way shorter and less serious than "Jonny Questa" and the 5.11s in the middle of the dome. Though discontinuous in difficulty, everything on Questa is good-- and "Con Questa Libre" is sheltered from wind and gets sun earlier than most.

We combined "Taos Rock" P1-P3 into 2 pitches, would recommend that to avoid "tricky belays", and is described this way below.

Look for the next R-facing corner system to the right of "Tostadas". This should be to the left of a "pillar" with 2 trees. The start is to the right of a grimy arch/cave-looking feature.

P1. Climb up into the R-facing corner. You'll find a ledge at 50' (optional belay). We started in bushy cracks, but it might be possible to traverse into this from the right. Follow the obvious corner with good climbing in the corner and a very cool, but tricky crux leading to a stance on a ledge. Gear should be adequate but somewhat tricky on this pitch. Anchor with gear. (5.10+, 150').

P2. Angle right on the ledge, face climb left (still unprotected ~5.8). Move left to a hand crack. Pull through an overhang and walk left to join "Tostadas". Work right on slabs with gear in the right-angling cracks. As these end, face climb left to a great ledge below the huge roofs. Belay off a slung horn and other small gear. (5.10-, 100')

P3. (Now shared with Tostadas). Traverse right, and escape the roofs to their right side, following cracks. As the crack widens, step left and find great chickenheads to pull through. Belay at a crack and a stance shortly above. (5.8, 100')

P4. Great 5.4 chickenhead climbing leads to a ledge with a tree near the top. Some Cl. 3 to get to hike-off territory from there.

Location

This climb is the next obvious line uphill and to the right of Tostadas. It begins left of a "pillar" that has 2 pine trees on it.

Protection

No fixed gear on the entire route. 2 ea cams to 3", nuts.