Smokey Desperado (direct finish)

Same start as Smokey Desperado (V6). do the left traversing hand moves starting on the big chalky jugs, drop down and to the left to the good low holds in the middle of the boulder. Instead of moving left on the bad slopers and finishing on the arete, go straight up using whatever combination of mediocre crimp, mediocre side pull or mediocre sloper that works for you. Listed as an unnamed V4 in the Marty Karabin guide

Start on the chalky jugs with bad feet (on the north side) at the far right (looking south) of the sunshine boulder.

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