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Description
This crack is beautiful looking, and should be calling to you when you rappel from the north anchors; it is also nearly directly under the rappel anchors, so be mindful when launching up this thing.
This crack starts running vertically from fingers to thin hands, the arcs right into a horizontal. It starts with decent feet, but quickly cruxes to all hand jams with little help from the feet for about two moves. Pull through this with hand jams deep in a flaring crack, or use the edge. You can finish the crack by traversing, or by launching up onto the face and heading to the corner that leads directly to the rappel anchors.
Standing on the crack once it gets horizontal, plug a black metolius in a near perfect pod, then move onto the face, aiming up to a finger sized crack and roof. Plug some gear, then pull the corner around a small roof and clip the rappel.
Location
From the trail, scramble up class 4 boulders to a grassy platform. The crack is beautiful looking and fun to climb, if strenuous for a moment. You will see this every time you rap off big rock from the north.
Protection
One full set of cams (1-8 met), one full set of nuts, and smaller tricams should be plenty for this route.
When standing on the arcing crack and getting ready to pull onto the face, I found it very helpful to have black metolius (or equal) to protect in a small but very solid pod.
Routes in North Face Big Rock
- 1Arcing Crack (aka Rescind)5.9Trad