- Edit (TBD)
Description
A fun climb with an early crux (have the green camalot ready) and then a pump crux up top if you don't move quickly. Climb the initial thin crack up to a pretty good hold, protect high, but with a sling, traverse left on funky moves to gain the open book to the left and then layback up the good flake. to the anchors. It get easier as you go.
(Per Steven Lucarelli's description on 10/21/09) - "This route climbs a short splitter to a traverse left (crux?) and a small rest stance. Layback and jam the final right facing corner to the anchor."
Location
A few feet left of Blue Sky Mining...
As you head left past the popular unnamed 11- handcrack (entered as 10+ on this site) you will come around a corner past a tree and see 2 short climbs, a 10+ on the right (Blue Sky Mining) in a primarily right facing corner, and an 11- route (Unnamed) switching from a crack on the right to a crack on the left at a horizontal 20' up.
Protection
From very thin hands up to thin hands until the traverse, then thin hands down to thin fingers at the top. 1 cams each .75", 2.5", 1" 2 cams each 1.5", 2". will sew it up.
(Per Steven Lucarelli's gear recommendation on 10/21/09) - ".4 friend to #4 Camalot, 1 each."
Routes in Broken Tooth
- 4Midnight Oil5.10+Trad