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Peak Mountain 3

Eternal Flow

FA Brent Barghahn and Ally Lamb 7/2016
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Pitch 1:

10a, 6 bolts

Crimp and high step your way through multiple blank sections, gaining an easier juggy portion in the middle. Finish up with steep moves between good holds and a right arete as the wall kicks back. Walk left on the comfy ledge for two bolt and chains.

Pitch 2:

10c, 9 bolts

Step left from the anchor to the corner, then climb the rippled dike features on the smooth wall. Technical crimping and edging leads to a cryptic sequence through the triangle shaped merging overlaps. Easy terrain gives last reprieve prior to the sustained traverse involving hands free high stepping and smearing smooth milky ripples. At the roof, off balance undercling and layback holds swing one around to a final desperate stab for secure finger locks. All too short glory laybacking finishes out the pitch with equally fantastic exposure over the storm mountain area. Belay sitting on the edge at two bolts and chains.

Decent:

Two rappels with a 60m. Rap straight down from the pitch two anchor to the anchor and chains on Broken Dreams (hidden under a roof, perfect plumb line while rappelling). One more gets you to the ground. Alternatively, one can rap the route itself. When rapping the first pitch, head climbers right over the clean edge to avoid loose rock straight below the anchor.

Location

Eternal Flow is the fully bolted line 100ft down hill from the large gully chockstone. The 5.5 scramble mentioned in the area page is not needed to get to this line. This line is left of Watermelon Tetris, another fully bolted line.

Coming up the main talus slope stay RIGHT in the larger and more consolidated talus, AVOIDING obvious worn switchbacks in the middle (slippery and sketchy scree). About halfway up the slope there is a large pine that you can go around on its right. Switchbacks marked with cairns and logs start here and continue up to the wall. Belay is a flattened stance. 20 minutes.

Sunny in the morning, full shade starts early afternoon. The narrow gully stays cool.

Protection

9 quickdraws, fully bolted