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Peak Mountain 3

The Castle Grayskull

FA Kory Kowallis
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Description

After a short, schetchy 4th class climb look for the easiest line that angles up to the top of the tower. This is located on the north-west side of the tower.

Pitch 1 - Climb up a series of ledges on hollow, breaking rock. After a few ledges, squeeze through a chimney and continue up more ledges. 5.7 - 100 ft.

Pitch 2 - Continue up chimneys and grassy ledges to a choss filled gully. At the end of the little gully, head up and rightish for another 30 to 40 ft. to the anchors.

From the anchors scramble up another 30 ft to the summit. Some may feel the need for a belay.

Downclimb back to the anchors and do 2 raps back to the ground. DO NOT USE A SINGLE 60 METER ROPE! A 70 m will reach with a few ft to spare.

Location

As you are driving south past Castle Gate, this tower is located on the left (east) side of the canyon. Like Castle Gate, it is separated from the main cliff band. To get there, take the turnoff to Duchesene, pass the bridge over the Price river and then take your first right. There is a sign that says private property but as far as I know, it is for the gated road to the right (as you turn left). Drive up the road for about a half a mile and park on the side. There is an old mining road (Ketcham Rd. on Google Maps) that you can walk up for 20 or so minutes. After about 20 minutes of walking, pick your path to the base of the tower.

The route starts on the north/west face and angles up into the north facing wall. To get to the actual start fo the route there is a little bit of schetchy 4th class

Protection

Good placements are hard to find. I used maybe 4 pieces total on the whole route. You might want to bring a rack of cams from the smallest up to a #2 or #3 BD.

To rap the route you NEED a 70 meter rope. A 60 will not make it, unless you bring 2 of them. Raps are straight forward but be careful of loose rock when you pull the rope.


Routes in Weigh Station Area


  1. 1
    The Castle Grayskull
    5.7
    Trad