Public Indecency

‘Public Indecency’ ~ 280’ 3 pitches with alternate (easier) 3rd pitch

Description: This route has long been looked at by many a Notch climber, and it delivers! With a moderate, all bolted, first pitch; a super fun and interesting second pitch and a high exposure third pitch (with an alternate easier variation) with a short approach from the road, this route is easily destined to be a Smugglers Notch classic!!

Getting There: Located between the starts of The Quartz Crack and The Diagonal; scramble up to the ledge between these two climbs making a few 4th class moves to establish oneself on a ledge with a large block leaning against the cliff. Alternately, climb up pitch 1 of quartz crack and diverge up and right after the second bolt (.75 cam helpful) on the first pitch of Quartz Crack.

Rack: While much of the route is bolted, a light cam rack is useful for pitches 2 & 3. Rack of .3 - 2”. (Light cam rack to #4 for P3 left Vari.).

A beefy, durable rope is useful for the sharper edges encountered along the entirety of route. This is the Notch after all!!

Pitch 1: 5.8 Sport 90’ It’s on! Start atop the large boulder on the ledge, clip a bolt and make a “game on” move to start up the route. Follow bolts up and right to a right facing corner and stem between the corner and feet on the arete. Fun movement on good rock leads to a large ledge and a bolted chain anchor. Pitch 1 was climbed Fall 2017. FA: Steve Charest & Tim Farr

Pitch 2: 5.11a Mixed 100’ From the anchor moved out right towards two small triangular blocks for your hands and clip the first bolt, move down and around then back up to a slopey rail and clip the next. Continue up following a couple more bolts and a jug before moving left into the stellar finger crack to place gear at its entrance. Sort out the moves in the crack to clip a pin and a bolt at the exit. Gain a shallow ledge and milk a brief rest then continue stepping left through easier terrain then up into the pitches third change in character. Gain an undercling, clip a bolt, then sort out the last several moves to the routes last bolt and a mantle onto a small ledge and a bolted ring anchor. Couple alpine slings helpful to cut down on rope drag throughout the pitch. FA: Steve Charest & Tim Farr

Pitch 3: 5.12+ mixed 80’ Step up and right passing two bolts up into easier terrain to place good gear in a crack on the left (extend draw). Continue up through moderate terrain to gain a bolt then turn into the layback crack, careful avoiding loose rock in the crack to gain a shallow shelf to clip another bolt up over your head. Move right finding a good finger lock and quartz pinch to slap around the corner with cool exposure and a hidden jug and another bolt. Run up a small ramp to a ledge and get ready for the crux! Clip a bolt then sort out the moves to gain another bolt with nothing but air below you. Wild! Pull up and over placing gear and gain the large ledge and a bolted ring anchor! Careful to avoid loose rock and blocks on the ledge. FFA: Kris Fiore

*Clipping an alpine draw to the second to last bolt of this pitch cuts down on the rope drag considerably. This pitch still awaiting an FFA

Pitch 3 Vari. : 5.8+ Mixed 80’ 3 stars From the top of pitch two, step up and right passing two bolts and gaining easier ground to a crack for gear. Continue up and left clipping pins and small cracks to a cave like ledge and larger crack for the #4 cam. Pull through finding easier terrain above exiting up and right at a bolted ring anchor shared with pitch 3. Careful to avoid loose rock and blocks on the ledge. *sections of this pitch has been previously climbed (..old pins) as an alternate last pitch to the Quartz Crack. FA: Steve Charest & Tim Farr

Descent: You can make 3 rappels with a single 60m rope down the Quartz Crack face using the bolted stations used on the ascent. From atop the large ledge, rappel hard left towards the pitch 3 variation exit careful to avoid sharp edges. For the last rappel go all the way to the ground towards the start of the route The Diagonal.

FA: Tim Farr & Steve Charest : Aug. 31, 2018

Sandwiched in between the Quartz Crack and the Diagonal Rock Climbs in Smugglers Notch on the Quartz Crack Face, and just left of the winter ice climb, The Snotcicle. 

Mostly bolted. a light cam rack is useful for pitches 2 & 3. Rack of .3 - 2”. (& light cam rack to #4 for P3 left Vari.). A beefy, durable rope is useful for the sharper edges encountered along the entirety of route.