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Peak Mountain 3

Little Maniac/Dead End Crack

FA Eric Breitenberger (TR) Dan Jaffe (Lead)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is THE crack of the Tors. The crack varies from hands to fingers before tapering out to 5.9 run-out at the top. A fixed pin at the top of the crack was pulled out with a gentle tug this summer. A couple bolts a the top of this climb would make the lead considerably safer.

To top rope the climb, go around to the south side of the rock and follow a ramp to a grassy ledge. From the grass head towards the wide gap (chimney) that leads to the top. The moves are a bit committing here and I have to agree with the guide book that a belay makes the outing more pleasant. Being tall helps, too.

Location

East side of Asgard Tor, north end. Obvious, clean, beautiful crack.

Protection

Cams and nuts to 2" with 3 bolted anchors at top