- Edit (TBD)
Description
Xenia climbs the jug haul up the northern corner of The Crucible alcove just 20' north of Gimme Your Lunch Money and tops out next to the cedar tree and boulder used for TR anchors. Xenia faces east so it will be cool in the summer nearly all day since the trees create shade all day and the slanted roof overhead creates a slanted chimney feeling. Take larger cams (5-6-7) and some nuts to get some protection or solo to the top on blocky jugs and a bomber foot at every high-step. While working the 5.11s nearby you can run up Xenia to re-rig TR, warm-up, and get newer climbers a unique send. Xenia is hard to photograph but it is fun to climb.While Xenia is 5.5 if you wear a big backpack going up you will swear it's 5.12 due to the slanted roof on your backIn Greek culture, Xenia refers to Hospitality shared to travelers and a set of customs shared between Hosts & Guests.Xenia consists of two basic rules:The respect from hosts to guests. Hosts must be hospitable to guests and provide them with a bath, food, drink, gifts, and safe escort to their next destination. It is considered rude to ask guests questions, or even to ask who they are, before they have finished the meal provided to them.The respect from guests to hosts. Guests must be courteous to their hosts and not be a threat or burden. Guests are expected to provide stories and news from the outside world. Most importantly, guests are expected to reciprocate if their hosts ever call upon them in their homes.
Location
Park at Pirates Landing (first parking from the top of Mt Scott) and walk downhill 30-50’, turn left to the east and scramble down the talus to a grassy slope. Head east to where the boulders run in a downhill edge and follow SSE. After a few ledges downhill look east toward the south bankline of Lake Lawtonka and a bald large dome with large huecos facing skyward and a couple cedar trees will mark the topout of The Crucible which has climbing faces pointing south and east. To see the climbing faces you’ll have to pass the crag heading east. Once you’ve found the dome with huecos on top the easiest scramble is south for 10-15 yards and then turn left and corkscrew down into The Crucible’s south face. Coordinates: (34.7424145, -98.5297211)
Protection
TR can share same anchor as Gimme Your Lunch Money or led on trad with larger cams (5-6-7) and/or nuts.