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Peak Mountain 3

Mike Mason Memorial

FA Loomis, Vernon, Steve Walker, Davis, 5/91
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Sweet route that follows a dike for 400 feet. If Bart Dome rock wasn't already featured enough for you, hop on this thing to add some wild crystal pulling.

P1 - 5.9 moves off the ground gain the first of three bolts and relatively easy terrain to an anchor on top of a horizontal dike.

P2 - head straight up the unprotected face or step left to a crack/groove where you might get some gear. Eventually some bolts will show up and a short headwall (5.9) must be climbed. Bolted anchor. P1 and 2 easily linked.

P3 - Up up the dike past closely spaced bolts which get you through the dike roof. Above, the dike becomes gigantic and you can place a piece or two in it if you want. Belay at anchor in alcove. 5.10a

P4 - Wowza, head up the super steep bulge stemming and pulling on crazy crystals (5.10c). Pass one bolted belay and continue up and right to another one. Continue on easy ground to the summit or rap

Location

Rightmost route on Bart. Scramble up to the ledge below the obvious dike. Just right of the huge chimney thing that is "Aquaman"

Protection

1/4"ers and a small rack from fingers to #1. A single 70m will not get you down P3. If you go to the summit, you can get down with one rope off the left shoulder