The Rampart Rage

The climb begins on a good ledge 100 feet up the Headstone.

Approach via a direct trad line, or use the

Remote Control

bolt-protected slab (better). The Rage fires off the ledge through a very blank, shallow dihedral that culminates in tricky exit moves into a thin crack/seam.

First done free by Alan Nelson, this classic Anderson/Hanson line never drops below 5.12 until pulling into the crack system above the dihedral and small roof. This is a world class route that holds its own from the Valley to the Gunks and is well worth the battle.

QD for the Rampart Rage pitch itself. The approach pitch can be either a trad line or sport according to your inclination.