Mystery Spire

This is the original line on Mystery Spire, with a really unique crux.

Pitch 1: Climb delicately up ledgy cracks to a bulge where a fixed piton protects a tips seam (crux). Wrestle past a bit of offwidth and finally jam up a gorgeous hand crack to a shoulder about halfway up the spire. Meager options for belay. (5.10-)

Move the belay 25 feet left along the ledge to a two-bolt chain anchor. Note that this is the station used for the second rappel.

Pitch 2: The business. Scamper up through the limestone band, plug a couple cams (extend slings as long as you dare), and negotiate an extremely heinous roof traverse. (5.10+)

Pitch 3: Walk over to the right side of the ledge and squeeze up an easy chimney to the base of the summit blocks. Make a few unprotected face moves across and up to a slung juniper on the northeast (tallest) tower. (5.8 R)

Rappels: (single 60m rope) From the slung juniper on the northeast (tallest) summit: rap to the chain anchors below P2 and then again to ground.

Start in a chossy corner on the far right side of the north face. The proper line through the basal munge can be discerned by stepping back and locating the nice splitter corner ~50 feet up with a fixed piton just below it.

Single rack to BD #4 One 60m rope