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Peak Mountain 3

Mouse in a milkshake

FA Team Juneau
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Climb Jaw Way to accessP1 - Head up the north wall from the end of the Jaw Way ledge, past a bolt near the ground into a short corner section to gain a small ledge. Move up and right from the ledge onto a mind-blowing flake that goes on forever. Enjoy using the alder while it lasts on the entry moves to the flake. Climb the ever-hollowing flake past bolts and good gear placements until the final slab moves to reach a hanging stance at a two-bolt anchor. 5.10+ 30mP2 - Climb left to thin slab moves gaining a right trending ramp system. Pad up the ramp with good gear, and bolts where the gear disappears. Finish up a stellar low angle finger crack onto a ledge with a bolted belay. 5.11- 45mP3 - Short dead horizontal leftward traverse with a few slab moves to a treed ledge. 5.10- 10mP4 - You're not out of the milkshake yet... Climb the steep offwidth to a no-hands rest at the halfway point. Launch from this ledge up a steep right-trending handcrack to clip the anchors at a tough stance where the wall angle slackens. Clip the chains at the halfway mark as a directional on your way down if you want to make it back to the starting ledge. Cole got the FA of this pitch with the anchor hardware on his harness unclipping the fixed line as he went, so don't give up Fievel... 5.12a, 25m, mixed trad/sport

Location

see description and overlay

Protection

mixed trad/sport


Routes in North Wall


  1. 1
    Mouse in a milkshake
    5.12a
    Trad