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Peak Mountain 3

In Search of Unicorns

FA Ed Webster, 1st 2 pitches, aid solo in 1977, 5.6 A2
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route lies on the South Face of Turkey Tail. It is about 30 feet East (right) of

Whimsical Dreams

.

It is an "obvious" splitter. Begin by climbing 15' up a curving crack, it is possible to deck here, as there are hard moves right off the ground. When the curving crack pinches down, reach right to an adjacent crack. This second crack is typically wet near the ground, and if you try to jump over too early, you'll find a nice surprise!

A no hands rest is reached shortly after switching cracks, then power through a thin hands/off fingers section. The crux just might be clipping the anchors--remember, you didn't send if you grab the anchors!

Protection

Mostly finger sizes up to #1 Camalot.