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Peak Mountain 3

Space Cadets

FA John Ficker and Glen Dickenson, 1986
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

First I've got to say I only climbed the first 80' or so, I belayed and ended up rapping off from under the roof. This thing is action-packed. The first 35' or so is a tenuous seam that is quite delicate and takes thin gear. This is listed as 5.9 in the book, harder in my opinion. Gain a ledge, clip an old bolt, continue up into a slanting hand crack. Have fun switching from jams to lieback when it opens up. I belayed under the roof, but the route continues up past the roof, through another seam, eventually to a 2 bolt anchor. 2 rope rappel from that point, 1 rope gets down from under the roof.

One of the better single pitches of granite I've done.

Location

Two crack systems angle up the North facing wall on Morrell Wall in an upside down V, almost converging below a small roof with a rappel rope slung in it. Space Cadets is the left hand crack. The right hand crack is listed as 5.7.

Protection

I placed small TCUs and nuts in the seam, gear up to #3 camalot for the rest.