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Description
A fantastic pitch with a great variety of face climbing and thin crack moves.
Start 30 feet down and left from
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Climb past a bolt, then move right and climb a right-leaning thin crack (10a), then up a short vertical crack. Move right at a bolt (5.9) onto a slab, then join
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at a small overhang.
Climb over the overhgang (5.10b/c) then clip a bolt at the base of a 30-foot, slightly overhanging hand and fist crack. This bolt was placed by Richard Harrison on the first ascent of
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in 1973, (subsequently replaced with a 3/8-inch bolt many years ago), as Richard presumably didn't trust his rack of hexes to get solid placements in the slightly flaring crack.
Climb up and right to another bolt, then traverse right (10+) to reach a vertical crack/seam. Follow the crack through a bulge (11a) then climb a juggy arete past a bolt up to the 2-bolt anchor. You can get a small CD (#1 metolious) in a horizontal slot just above the crux and before the last bolt.
You can lower-off with a 60 meter rope, but barely. Tie a knot in the end of your rope.
Protection
5 bolts
Stoppers: #3, 2 each #4 and #5, #11 or #12
CDs: .5 to 2.5 inches
Metolius: 1 each #1 and #2
Camalots: 2 each #.4, #1; 1 each #.5, #.75 and #2
Bring plenty of slings to mitigate rope drag.