- Edit (TBD)
Description
This climb is found by following the trail right until it goes behind the leaning Annunaki Pillar. Just as you exit this, you will see a 3" crack that thins to 1" as it climbs 50' zig-zagging wildly through clings on it's way to a set of anchors. This is on the underbelly of the leaning pillar that faces the wall and is one of the steeper splitters in the creek, albeit a short route.
Climb up perfect hands for the first half of the route and get ready to gymnastically gun for the top before getting pumped. You may find the route easy for it's assigned grade, but may also find that it is more or less face climbing the diagonal features of the crack, toe hooking, back-stepping and flagging off of the features than it is about jamming. Thus, it is likely easier for the strong-shouldered and long-armed, and hand size might not matter as much as for other climbs.
Protection
Camalots: two #2's for the easy start. One #1 for the transition to hard moves before the chalked horizontal. Two #.75 for the hard climbing. One #.5 for the finishing moves after the crux. Slings for the anchor.
Routes in The Optimator
- 10Annunaki5.11+Trad