- Edit (TBD)
Description
Start by scrambling for about 15 feet on poor quality rock to a small stance. You can get a nice cam in close to the ground, just to decrease your chance of skating off the cliff (of course, you, or your belayer will want to be anchored to the tree as well!). Reach high up to a crack in a shallow dihedral and get a pretty solid #3 BD micronut if you’re short, or a bomber yellow metolius if you’re tall. Head straight up from here, through bands of rotten rock, another shallow dihedral, and some more rotten rock. Aim for an obvious tree that is 10 feet above a bomber (and comforting) C1 crack.
1 star for rock quality, 3 stars for generally decent gear and AMAZING exposure and position.
Location
Upper tier route. Located directly above the route Pleasure Burn. Access the start of this route by climbing one of the routes below. I climbed the route Not Even Close, and walked 30 feet to the right. The route starts in front of an obvious large tree (~1.5 feet diameter), which also serves as a great ground anchor.
Protection
Double cams from metolius 00 to BD 2, triples in orange metolius and BD 1. Small beak, grappling hook, red ballnut, micronuts and peenuts.
Routes in [Redacted]
- 17Unintentional Imposition5.5Trad · Aid