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Peak Mountain 3

Regular Route [WWW]

FA P. Ament & P. Mayrose, early 1960s
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is a route on the right side of the Wall of Winter Warmth which may attract folks seeking a moderate line up a nice chunk of rock. Perhaps, it would be better to choose a nicer line elsewhere. This is described in Rossiter's guide as an approach to Right Side. Hmmm. Loose, brushy, carmelized animal feces, unaesthetic, scratchy, flaky, too loose for pro in sections...adventure, at best. You can approach this via lower WWW pitches like Closed Open Space,

Leader of the Pack

,

The Slit

, or traversing in from the right on loose 3rd to 4th terrain from the descent gully off of WWW.

You can start with a belay off a large tree. Move up to a broken start to the dihedral. Note, the flakes are shattered here & a bit precarious, so be careful to avoid knocking these on your belayer or traverse right, go around the loosest section, traverse back into the dihedral. Go up. Get to a weird bulging section, walking up a #3 Camalot, traverse right through a bush, face climb up to a ledge. Here choose the easier left version with carmelized animal poop or move right into a licheny groove. Gain a belay with 2 bolts in a large, hopefully wedged, boulder. Continue up passing a few climbs on the left (Right Side, Mordor?, The Prisoner, etc.). Fire for the top along a steep ramp and dihedral.

Descend off right to the loosish gully.

Protection

Standard rack to #4 Camalot.