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Peak Mountain 3

Chasin' the Wind

FA Mike Artz, Cal Swoager 1985
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

One of the best cracks of its grade at the NRG. It's best to pitch this thing out to reach the 30ft-high starting ledge. Most people climb up the boulders/gully feature from the left; it's not too bad but you'll still want to place a few pieces. There's also a sandbagged 12c NRG sport start on the Naz Naz, or a worthy single-bolted, PG-13 12a start up the center of the ledge feature, if you want to up the ante a little.

Once at the base of the obvious crack, pick your jaw up off the ledge and enjoy bomber NRG fingerlock/mini-jugs, with the cruxes being longer reaches between good locks. Take a nice selection of medium to large nuts, as well as small and medium-sized cams; gear is very straightforward. There are bolted anchors at a stance about ten feet below the clifftop. As I remember, you cannot rappel to the ground with a 70m rope, but it's easy for multiple people to toprope from the ledge.

Location

Locate a large ledge about 20 ft off the ground, just before a large overhang if you are heading upstream.

Protection

The main crack protects primarily with small nuts. A few of the larger sized BD micronuts are helpful. Some small cams (aliens) are also helpful. Bolted anchor.