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Peak Mountain 3

Middle Dihedral

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Description

No idea what this route really is but we went up to Merlin Dome to have a look around and chose to climb a Dihedral we found.

We did the route as 3 pitchs which were probably around 100-150 ft long each.

Pitch 1 - 5.7 to a tree belay

Pitch 2 - 5.7 to a nice ledge

Pitch 3 - 5.7 PG to a ledge at the base of a slab

Descent: Down climbed a 3rd class rap to climbers right. Then down climb or down led if needed a 4th class gully to gain the base of the dome and walked back to our gear.

Location

I would locate this some where on the right side of Merlin Dome. Probably right of Magic Flute (though I have no idea where that actually is).

Protection

Standard Trad Rack will do. Pitch 3 has some loose rock and is wandery; we had double ropes.


Routes in Merlin Dome


  1. 2
    Middle Dihedral
    5.7
    Trad