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Peak Mountain 3

The Higher Truth

FA Brian Ketron, Matt Benoit, Ryan Kelly Oct, 2018
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

An incredible pitch!

The pitch starts with 20 meters of laybacking and jamming up a 5.10 corner. At about halfway up the pitch, the climbing abruptly becomes much harder with bolts the rest of the way. Clip the first bolt, and pull off the 1st crux; gastons and a series of cross-through underclings.

Take advantage of the calf pumper rest before the steep climbing.

Pull off the next crux through the bulge via barn-door liebacks and big throws to get established on the headwall.

Climb jugs and liebacks up the 92° headwall to a series of slopers, and a pump crux right before the anchor.

Clip the chains as you stand atop the wall!

An 80m rope will lower you back to the belay.

Location

Climb the access pitch to reach the base of The Truth.

Climb the Truth (12a thin crack).

From the anchor atop The Truth, climb the dihedral to headwall, to the top of the Sugar Cookie

40m pitch!

Protection

Gear from nuts to #3 Camalot. 8 bolts. 2 bolt anchors.

80m rope required!