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Peak Mountain 3

Cornholio

FA Unknown. Maybe Nick and Kristina Martel.
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Description

3 (or 2) Pitch route. Wear Helmets!

Pitch 1: 90', takes either "Bevis" or "Butthead" to the chains, B/C.

Pitch 2: 30-35', heads left along the belay ledge then up and right via a low angle ramp. Once 7-10' above the belay step right around the bulge (exposed but easy)to a small dihedral and climb face just right of crack/small right facing dihedral to belay ledge with 7-8" diameter tree for an anchor, Trad. When stepping onto the 2ed belay ledge be very careful not to pull on the completely disconnected death flake (we would trundle but it would have hit our stuff/belay ledge/ hangers on P1/ and might not have stopped before the road. There is a good bit of smaller loose rocks on the ledge too not much in the area where you sit/stand but a couple feet to the left. You can link this to pitch 1 but you CAN NOT rap to the ground from the tree with a 60m rope.

Pitch 3: 95', heads to the summit via easy climbing (4th class-5.5). You can make it harder if you want through your route selection. Sling a boulder or horn to rap back down to tree or walk/scramble (and maybe short raps) to the north/west. We rapped the route. If you really wanted to you could also link pitches 2 and 3 but splitting them up makes communicating and rope drag much better as from the chains at the top of pitch 1 you can't see the tree at the top of pitch 2 or the lower half of pitch 3. So if you want to link pitches link pitch 1 and 2.

Location

Starts on "Bevis" or "Butthead", which are the 2ed and 3ed bolted routes from the right.

Protection

Pitch 1 ("Bevis" or "Butthead") 6 bolts and chain anchors and an extra pair of cold shuts. Pitch 2- nuts/cams/hexes/sling for tree. Pitch 3 nuts/cams/hexes/sling for boulder/big flake/horn.