The Great Dihedral

This is a great introduction to chimney climbing at Lumpy. Two full pitches up a chimney lead to a nice right-facing corner (with a Bombay slot), which takes you to the top of the Bookend. The route is moderate and the protection is plentiful. Bring kneepads and trail your pack from your harness for the first two pitches or leave it at the base.

This route begins about 15 meters uphill from

Orange Julius

in the large dihedral/chimney. Some easy scrambling is required to get to the base of this route. This route is easily viewed from the approach trail.

The protection on this route is excellent. A #3 Camalot is useful but not required.